Sunday, January 22, 2006

Biological Dawn Patrol II

Yesterday's waves were quite nice; some in the chest-to-head range. I didn't go see the biological, that was put off until today. So this morning I wake up and the buoy is at 4.6 feet, up from yesterday's reading, which means that I simply have to get in a little session this morning before I head to Orlando. Which means that I will take some clothes and change in the parking lot after my session.

Thank god (God? Gawd? Cod?) that my wife is so understanding. She's pretty cool about my surfing and tries to give me the time I need with the waves. During hurricane season her patience slowly wears thin, but that's because I have been known to put waves in front of other, "more important" things like a job, church, whatever. I don’t' know if I'd really be able to live in a place that had good, consistent waves. I don't know what effect a steady diet of good waves would have on my brain. I might get warped and go native like Kurtz in "Heart of Darkness." I'd be floating out there on my board all fat and sweaty with my face painted up. I might end up fulfilling my childhood fantasy, which was to live in a crappy little apartment, work at a 7-11 (Big Gulps were the primary fuel of my adolescence) and surf daily.

I wonder if they have 7-11s in Chile. They have deep Pacific pulses, mostly coming up from the south, which means lots of left-hand waves. Goofy footer's paradise.


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